Dr Berenstein calls flavourists craft artisans – people doing skilled work with their hands, and she describes their creations as the marriage of science and art.
Strolling away from Xiao Bai's house, past the bent heads of Bai women tying their patterns, the sweat and hard work of craftspeople bring the craft to life.
At the very heart of this industrial food system, there are these craft artisans who are essentially designing molecule by molecule, the flavours that shape the way food is made to taste.